Glass Care and Cleaning
Oxidation is a natural part of stained glass, especially on the solder and the patina. The glass piece and solder that holds the glass art together is thoroughly cleaned and then treated with polish and wax to keep oxidation at bay. If over time, your piece begins to develop white spots along the solder lines, or generally looks less shiny, it may be time for a quick cleaning. You can apply carnauba wax - or Lemon Pledge - to the entire piece and when dried to a hazy film, place on a flat surface and buff off with a cotton cloth.

Lead
Unless the piece is meant to be worn as an accessory or jewelry, the solder will contain lead. While lead is not harmful unless ingested or inhaled, it’s best practice to always wash your hands after handling stained glass.

Hanging Your Stained Glass
I recommend hanging your piece from a metal hook that is physically attached to the wall, ceiling or wooden window frame. I use sturdy jack-chain for hanging the pieces I make, but if you’d like to make your piece longer to fit your space, you can add more hanging line such as extra sturdy chain or very strong fishing line.

I don’t recommend suction cups as the weight of your piece will eventually pull the suction away from the window which could be disastrous for your piece. I’ve heard good things about using sticky window hooks, but I have no experience with using these myself - so please use at your own discretion.

Shipping
Everything offered can be shipped domestically within the US

Timeline for shipping varies with different products but I do aim to ship as soon as possible. Please keep in mind that this is a one-person operation and deadlines can’t be guaranteed.

All products will be shipped USPS Priority Mail which will include tracking information.

I am not responsible for items lost or damaged by USPS.

Local?
If you’re local to me in Portland, Oregon, and would prefer to avoid shipping costs, you can use code PDXPICKUP which will remove the shipping charges. I’ll then email you within 48 hours after purchase to discuss arranging a pickup time at my studio in St. Johns.

Returns
All sales are final. 

Due to the handmade and one-of-a-kind nature of most of the items I sell, I do not accept returns, exchanges or cancellations.

That being said, if there is an unforeseen issue, or an item breaks in transit, please contact me within 48 hours of delivery and I will work with you on a solution.

What is Natural Dye?
Before synthetic dyes were invented in the mid-1800s, all dyed textiles were dyed with plants, flowers, metals and salts and various combinations of these.

What Items Are Used?
In my dye processes, I use alum acetate as a fabric treatment called mordanting. Most plants I use for dyes are grown in my garden or foraged for in the Pacific Northwest. Occasionally dyes are purchased while I wait to harvest my own (some plants take 3 years before you can do your first harvest!).

I dye on 100% cotton - nearly always. I will be experimenting with other cellulose (plant-based) fibers in the future.

All items are washed with a plant-based, gentle detergent before and after dyeing.

Fading
If you’ve heard before that Natural Dyes fade faster or are not as colorfast as synthetic dyes - this is partially true. Naturally dyed items require more care in washing than with your synthetically dyed items. Most any color (synthetic or natural) will fade over time, especially when there is sunlight or harsh UV lighting involved. But with proper care, washing, and keeping out of harsh sunlight, your products should hold up for a very long time.

Washing
Natural dyes will be quickly destroyed if you use standard detergents. My recommendation is to hand wash or use delicate cycle on a machine with cold water and a PH Neutral, plant-based soap. I’ve been using Synthrapol which is easily found online. Hanging items to dry is the best method, but if hanging outside, try to find a shadier area as sun can affect the longevity of the color. Drying on a low/cool setting in your dryer is also perfectly fine.